The Castelli Romani in one day: a trip from Rome

The Castelli Romani are the towns of the Alban Hills, south-east of Rome: born around the castles of medieval lords and turned, with the popes’ villas, into the city’s countryside for holidays. They are close to each other, and in a day you can see quite a few. This is the route we would take, living here.

Before you set off

• By car the whole tour is possible: the towns are close to each other, but it is best not to be in a hurry.
• By train from Roma Termini you reach Frascati. Without a car it is better to choose two or three stops.
• Many places have opening times that change or are visited by booking: the official links are in the article for each stop.

1. Frascati, in the morning

Start with the town closest to Rome. Piazza Marconi with its view, Villa Aldobrandini and the Water Theatre, the cathedral and the fake dome of the Gesù. The full tour is in what to see in Frascati, the history in history of Frascati.

2. Grottaferrata and the Greek abbey

A few minutes further on is the abbey of San Nilo, founded in 1004, where the monks have prayed in the Byzantine rite for a thousand years. Inside its fortress walls are Domenichino’s frescoes.

3. Rocca di Papa and Monte Cavo

Now climb towards the highest point. From Rocca di Papa you reach Monte Cavo, the Latins’ sacred mountain, where you can walk a stretch of the Roman Sacred Way. All in Monte Cavo and Rocca di Papa.

4. Nemi, at lunch or just after

Down to Lake Nemi: the viewpoint, the museum of Caligula’s ships and, in June, the strawberries. The story is in Nemi, the lake and the ships.

5. Ariccia and the porchetta

Then Ariccia: piazza di Corte, Palazzo Chigi and Bernini’s church, and a porchetta roll. See Ariccia and the porchetta.

6. Castel Gandolfo at sunset

Finish on Lake Albano, at Castel Gandolfo, the town of the popes’ summer residence. The palace and gardens have been open since 2016, with times to check: if you want to visit them, put them earlier in the tour. All in Castel Gandolfo and Lake Albano.

The evening

To go back to Rome you pass again over the Frascati hills. Monte Porzio Catone is right there, with Villa Mondragone, Tusculum and a compact old town: if you have another day, it is the place to start from, and we tell you about it in one day in Monte Porzio Catone.

In short

• Suggested order: Frascati, Grottaferrata, Rocca di Papa and Monte Cavo, Nemi, Ariccia, Castel Gandolfo.
• How: by car for the whole tour; by train, two or three stops.
• To check: opening times of museums, villas and the Papal Palace.
• To eat: porchetta at Ariccia, strawberries at Nemi, Frascati wine everywhere.